Smoky Yellow Split Peas (Tamatar Chana Dal)

Ingredients

serves serves 6, active time 30 minutes, total time 1 hour

• 1 pound potatoes, russet or Yukon Gold
• 1 cup yellow split peas
• 1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 2 to 4 dried red cayenne chiles (like chile de árbol), stems discarded
• 1 tablespoon coriander seeds
• 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
• 1 medium-size tomato, cored and diced
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems
• 1 1/2 teaspoons coarse kosher or sea salt

Procedures

1. Peel the potatoes and cut them into 1/2-inch cubes. Transfer the cubed potatoes to a bowl large enough to hold them. Add enough cold water to cover the potatoes to prevent them from oxidizing and turning black.
   
2. Place the split peas in a medium-sized saucepan. Add water to cover and rinse the peas, rubbing them between your fingertips (I just use the fingers of one hand to do this). The water will become cloudy and may have some debris like the odd skin from the peas (even though they are skinless) or dust from the packaging. Drain this water. Repeat 3 to 4 times until the water, upon rinsing the peas, remains clearer. Add 4 cups water to the pan with the peas and let it come to a boil over medium-high heat. You will see some foam rise to the surface; scoop it out and discard it.
   
3. Drain the potatoes and add them with the turmeric to the peas, stirring once or twice. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover the pan. Cook the mélange, stirring occasionally, until the peas are tender but still firm looking and the potatoes are cooked, 20 to 25 minutes.
   
4. Meanwhile, heat a small skillet over medium-high heat. Once the skillet feels hot (when you hold the palm of your hand close to the bottom of the skillet you will feel the heat), usually after 2 to 4 minutes, add the chiles, coriander, and cumin. Toast the spices, shaking the skillet every few seconds, until the chiles blacken and smell smoky hot and the seeds turn reddish brown and smell incredibly aromatic (nutty with citrus undertones), 1 to 2 minutes. Immediately transfer the spice blend to a blender and plunk in the tomato. Puree, scraping the insides of the blender as needed, to make a smooth, reddish brown paste with a smoky aroma that is sure to knock your socks off.
   
5. Once the peas are cooked, add the tomato and spice paste to the pan. I usually pour some of the liquid from the peas into the blender and process it for a brief second to make sure I get every last bit of the tomato paste, and then pour it back into the pan. Stir in the cilantro and salt.
   
6. Increase the heat to medium-high and let the dal boil vigorously, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the flavors mingle and the sauce thickens slightly, 12 to 15 minutes. If you would like the sauce to be thicker, mash some of the peas and potatoes with the back of your spoon. Serve the dal warm.

Ultimate Chicken Curry (Tamatar Murghi)

Ingredients

serves Serves 4, active time 45 minutes, total time 45 minutes

• Raghavan's Blend
• 2 tablespoons coriander seeds
• 1 tablespoon cumin seeds
• 2 teaspoons black or yellow mustard seeds
• 1 teaspoon black peppercorns
• 1/2 teaspoon whole cloves
• 12 to 15 dried red cayenne chiles (like chiles de arbol), stems discarded
• 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
•  
• Curry
• 2 tablespoons canola oil
• 1 small onion, coarsely chopped
• 4 medium-size cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
• 4 pieces fresh ginger (each about the size and thickness of a 25-cent coin; no need to peel the skin), coarsely chopped
• 2 teaspoons Raghavan’s Blend (above) or store-bought Madras curry powder
• 1/2 cup canned diced tomatoes with their juices
• 1/2 cup half-and-half
• 1 1/2 pounds skinless, boneless chicken breasts, cut into 2-inch cubes
• 1 teaspoon coarse kosher or sea salt
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems

Procedures

1. To make the spice blend: Place the coriander, cumin, mustard seeds, peppercorns, cloves, and chiles in a spice grinder (you can also use a coffee grinder) and grind them to the consistency of finely ground black pepper. Stir in the turmeric, which will yellow the spice blend with its characteristic sunny bright disposition. Store the spice blend in a tightly sealed container, away from excess light, heat, and humidity, for up to 3 months.
   
2. To make the curry: Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Once the oil appears to shimmer, add the onion, garlic, and ginger and stir-fry until the onion is light caramel brown around the edges, 4 to 5 minutes.
   
3. Sprinkle the spice blend into the skillet and stir to mix. Let the spices roast in the onion medley until the aromas dramatically change, 10 seconds. Pour in the tomatoes and stir once or twice. Lower the heat and simmer the chunky sauce, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the tomato pieces soften, the excess moisture evaporates, and some of the oils in the spices start to dot the edge of the sauce, 5 to 7 minutes.
   
4. Pour the half-and-half into the skillet and scrape the bottom once or twice to release any bits of onion, garlic, and ginger, effectively deglazing the skillet and releasing those flavors back into the sauce. Transfer the chunky curry to a blender. Holding the lid down, puree the curry until it is slightly curdled looking but smooth, and saffron orange-hued.
   
5. Return the sauce to the skillet and stir in the chicken and salt. Simmer the curry, covered, over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the chicken, when cut with a fork or knife, is cooked through, no longer pinkish-red, and its juices run clear, 12 to 15 minutes.
   
6. Sprinkle the cilantro on top of the chicken curry and serve.