Creamed Pearl Onions

Note: Frozen pearl onions can be used in place of fresh. To use frozen onions, cook direct from frozen, skipping step 1.

Ingredients

serves Serves 6, active time 10 minutes, total time 30 minutes

• 2 pounds pearl onions (see note above)
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1/2 cup homemade or store-bought low-sodium chicken stock
• 1 bay leaf
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley leaves

Procedures

1. Using a paring knife, trim off the ends of each onion and score a light "X" into one cut side. Bring a medium pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add onions and cook until outer layers are soft, about 1 1/2 minutes. Drain onions and run under cool water until cold enough to handle. Peel onions with your fingers and discard peels.
   
2. Place onions in a medium saucepan and add heavy cream, stock, and bay leaf. Heat over medium-high heat until simmering, then lower heat to maintain a very gently simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until cream has reduced to a rich sauce, about 20 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper, discard bay leaf, stir in parsley, and serve. If sauce breaks and turns greasy, stir in 2 tablespoons of water and shake pan vigorously over high heat until it comes back together.

Creamed Spinach With Citrus Kosho

Ingredients

serves Serves 6, active time 30 minutes, total time 30 minutes, plus 48 hours resting time for the kosho

• Citrus Kosho
• 12 limes
• 2 grapefruits
• 2 oranges
• 18 lemons
• 2 serrano chiles
• 3 stalks lemongrass
• 2 tablespoons (36 grams) fine sea salt
• 3 drops (0.25 gram) Boyajian lemon oil or lemon essential oil (optional)
• 3 drops (0.25 gram) Boyajian lime oil or lime essential oil (optional)
• 3 drops (0.25 gram) Boyajian orange oil or orange essential oil (optional)
•  
• Creamed Spinach
• 1 small onion, chopped
• 3 garlic cloves
• 1 tablespoon (15 grams) Citrus Kosho (above) or store-bought yuzu kosho
• 4 tablespoons (56 grams) unsalted butter
• 1 1/2 teaspoons (38 grams) fine sea salt
• 1 1/2 pounds (680) grams baby spinach
• 1/2 cup (120 grams) crème fraîche

Procedures

1. For the kosho: Zest the limes, grapefruits, oranges, and lemons into a small bowl. Thinly slice the chiles. Remove the tough outer leaves of the lemongrass to expose the tender hearts. Slice the heart of the lemongrass. Put the citrus zest, chiles, lemongrass, and salt into a mortar. Use the pestle to pulverize the ingredients to a uniform paste.
   
2. Juice and strain 1 lime and 1 lemon and add them to the mortar and stir to combine. Add the lemon, lime, and orange oils if using to the mortar and stir to combine. Put the citrus kosho into a small jar and refrigerate for at least 2 days to let the flavors develop. Citrus kosho can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.
   
3. For the spinach: Put the onion, garlic, and citrus kosho in a blender and purée until smooth.
   
4. In a large saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onion purée, salt, and cook, stirring, for 4 to 5 minutes until the mixture has thickened slightly and lost its sharp, raw flavor. Add the spinach a handful at a time, wilting each new addition before adding the next, seasoning the mixture very lightly with salt after every few additions. Add the crème fraîche and bring the mixture to a simmer. Taste for seasoning and serve immediately.