Creamed Spinach With Citrus Kosho

Ingredients

serves Serves 6, active time 30 minutes, total time 30 minutes, plus 48 hours resting time for the kosho

• Citrus Kosho
• 12 limes
• 2 grapefruits
• 2 oranges
• 18 lemons
• 2 serrano chiles
• 3 stalks lemongrass
• 2 tablespoons (36 grams) fine sea salt
• 3 drops (0.25 gram) Boyajian lemon oil or lemon essential oil (optional)
• 3 drops (0.25 gram) Boyajian lime oil or lime essential oil (optional)
• 3 drops (0.25 gram) Boyajian orange oil or orange essential oil (optional)
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• Creamed Spinach
• 1 small onion, chopped
• 3 garlic cloves
• 1 tablespoon (15 grams) Citrus Kosho (above) or store-bought yuzu kosho
• 4 tablespoons (56 grams) unsalted butter
• 1 1/2 teaspoons (38 grams) fine sea salt
• 1 1/2 pounds (680) grams baby spinach
• 1/2 cup (120 grams) crème fraîche

Procedures

1. For the kosho: Zest the limes, grapefruits, oranges, and lemons into a small bowl. Thinly slice the chiles. Remove the tough outer leaves of the lemongrass to expose the tender hearts. Slice the heart of the lemongrass. Put the citrus zest, chiles, lemongrass, and salt into a mortar. Use the pestle to pulverize the ingredients to a uniform paste.
   
2. Juice and strain 1 lime and 1 lemon and add them to the mortar and stir to combine. Add the lemon, lime, and orange oils if using to the mortar and stir to combine. Put the citrus kosho into a small jar and refrigerate for at least 2 days to let the flavors develop. Citrus kosho can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.
   
3. For the spinach: Put the onion, garlic, and citrus kosho in a blender and purée until smooth.
   
4. In a large saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onion purée, salt, and cook, stirring, for 4 to 5 minutes until the mixture has thickened slightly and lost its sharp, raw flavor. Add the spinach a handful at a time, wilting each new addition before adding the next, seasoning the mixture very lightly with salt after every few additions. Add the crème fraîche and bring the mixture to a simmer. Taste for seasoning and serve immediately.

Spicy Thai Tofu With Spinach, Basil, and Peanuts

Ingredients

serves Serves 4-6, active time 20 minutes, total time 20 minutes

• 2 tablespoons high-heat cooking oil, divided
• One 16-ounce (500 g) block firm tofu, drained, patted dry and cut into 1/2-inch (1.25 cm) cubes
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 tablespoon minced galangal or fresh ginger
• 8 ounces (250 g) spinach, washed and trimmed
• 1 1/2 tablespoons fish sauce (nam pla)
• 2 teaspoons cooking sherry
• 1 tablespoon oyster sauce
• 1 tablespoon palm or brown sugar
• 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lime juice
• 2 teaspoons Asian chili sauce, preferably Sriracha
• 1/2 cup (10 g) finely chopped fresh Thai or Italian basil
• 1/3 cup (50 g) crushed roasted peanuts plus more for garnish
• Fresh Thai or Italian basil leaves for garnish

Procedures

1. Heat half of the oil in a wok or skillet over medium-high heat. Add the tofu pieces and stir-fry until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Remove from the pan and set aside.
   
2. Heat the remaining oil in the wok or skillet over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and galangal and stir-fry until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the spinach, fish sauce, sherry, oyster sauce, palm sugar, lime juice, and chili sauce; stir-fry until the spinach is wilted, about 2 minutes. Add the basil leaves and peanuts and stir-fry for 30 seconds until basil is wilted. Dish out and garnish with basil leaves and peanuts. Serve with jasmine rice.

Breakfast Tacos with Eggs, Spinach, and Bacon

Ingredients

serves Serves 2 to 3, active time 30 minutes, total time 30 minutes

• 4 slices thick-cut bacon, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
• 2 medium cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• 1 quart packed flat leaf spinach leaves, roughly chopped
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon butter
• 4 eggs, beaten
• 1 cup homemade or store-bought salsa verde
• 4 soft flour or corn tortillas, warmed
• Crumbled queso cotija or feta cheese, lime wedges, and sliced scallions and cilantro for garnish

Procedures

1. Cook bacon in a medium non-stick skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until crisp, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate with a slotted spoon, leaving fat behind.
   
2. Add garlic to bacon fat and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until fragrant and pale golden, about 1 minute. Add half of spinach and cook until wilted, about 30 seconds. Add remaining spinach and cook until wilted and most of the liquid has evaporated, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and wipe out skillet.
   
3. Melt butter in now-empty skillet over medium heat. Add eggs and cook, stirring constantly, until no longer watery but still moist, about 1 minute. Season to taste with salt and pepper and transfer to a plate.
   
4. Spread salsa over each tortilla and divide spinach evenly. Divide eggs on top of spinach and top with crumbled bacon. Serve immediately with crumbled queso cotija or feta cheese, lime wedges, and sliced scallions and cilantro.

Swiss Chard and Spinach Ravioli Nudi in Simple Tomato Sauce

Ingredients

serves serves 4 to 6, active time 1 1/2 hours, total time 1 1/2 hours

• Ravioli Nudi
• 1 pound (455 g) swiss chard, stems removed and reserved for another use, leaves shredded
• 8 ounces (225 g) fresh spinach leaves
• 12 ounces (340 g) fresh sheep's milk or well-drained cow's milk ricotta cheese
• Fine sea salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
• 3/4 cup (85 g) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus more for serving
• 2 large egg yolks, lightly beaten
• 1/4 cup (30 g) flour, plus more for coating the nudi
• 3 cups (720 g) Simple Tomato Sauce (below), heated to a simmer
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• Simple Tomato Sauce
• 2 garlic cloves, lightly crushed
• 1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes, with their juice
• Fine sea salt
• 5 large fresh basil leaves, shredded or torn

Procedures

1. Rinse the shredded chard leaves in cold water. Place the leaves, with the water still clinging to them, into a large saucepan, cover, and set the pan over medium heat. Cook the chard, tossing it from time to time, for 12 to 15 minutes, until tender and most of the water has evaporated. Turn off the heat, and using tongs, transfer the chard to a colander and let it cool. Rinse out the saucepan and return it to the stove.
   
2. Rinse the spinach leaves in cold water. Place the leaves, with the water still clinging to them, into the saucepan, cover, and set the pan over medium heat. Cook the spinach, tossing it from time to time with tongs, for 5 minutes, until tender. Remove from the heat and transfer to the colander with the chard to cool.
   
3. When the greens are cool enough to handle, squeeze as much excess water from them as you can. Transfer them to a cutting board and chop finely. You should end up with about 1 packed cup of freshly chopped greens weighing between 7 and 8 ounces (200 and 225 g).
   
4. Place the greens in a large bowl and add the ricotta, 1/2 teaspoon salt, a generous grinding of pepper, the nutmeg, the Parmigiano, and the egg yolks. Mix together gently but thoroughly. Sprinkle in the flour, and gently fold it into the mixture.
   
5. Pour some flour into a small shallow bowl. Have ready a large rimmed baking sheet lined with waxed paper or dusted with flour. With your hands, pinch off a piece of the greens mixture, form it into a ball about the size of a chestnut, roll it in the flour, and set it on the baking sheet. Continue to form the nudi until you have used all of the greens mixture.
   
6. Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat and salt generously. Carefully drop in 8 to 10 nudi. Within 1 or 2 minutes, they will begin to float to the surface. Continue to cook the nudi for another 5 to 6 minutes, until they have floated to the surface and are puffed up. With a large skimmer, remove the nudi and transfer them to a warmed serving bowl. Spoon about 1 cup of the tomato sauce over the nudi and mix very gently. Continue to cook the nudi until you have cooked them all. When they have all been added to the serving bowl, spoon additional sauce over the top and sprinkle with Parmigiano. Serve immediately.
   
7. To make the tomato sauce: Warm the garlic in the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Use a wooden spoon to press down on the garlic to release its flavor. Cook for about 2 minutes, or until the garlic begins to sizzle. Don't let it brown. Carefully pour in the tomatoes and their juice (the oil will splatter) and stir to coat with the oil. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and raise the heat to medium-high. Bring the sauce to a simmer, reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer gently, stirring from time to time, for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the sauce has thickened and the oil is pooling on the surface. Remove from the heat and stir in the basil. Tate and add more salt if you like.