Tam Taeng Kwaa (Thai Cucumber Salad)

Suggested tweaks: I only have a small mortar and pestle that I usually use for grinding spices. I was able to (mostly) replicate the larger mortar set-up by pounding the first few ingredients in the small mortar, and the transferring everything to a large ceramic bowl to gently pound the cucumber and long beans. You will likely need to trek to an Asian market for the dried shrimp and naam plaa raa.

Ingredients

serves Serves 2 to 6, active time 45 minutes, total time 45 minutes

• 1 tablespoon medium-size dried shrimp, rinsed and patted dry
• 1 ounce palm sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon water
• 1 small lime (preferably a Key lime), halved through the stem
• 3 grams peeled garlic (about 1 medium clove), halved lengthwise
• 1 gram dried Thai chiles (about 4), soaked in lukewarm water just until pliable, about 10 minutes, then drained
• 1 ounce long beans, ends trimmed, cut into 2-inch lengths (about 1/2 cup)
• 7 ounces Persian, English, or Japanese cucumbers (or any firm variety without large seeds and thick, bitter skin)
• 1 tablespoon Thai fish sauce
• 1 tablespoon naam plaa raa (fermented fish sauce)
• 1 tablespoon lime juice (preferably from Key limes or spiked with a small squeeze of Meyer lemon juice)
• 2 ounces cherry tomatoes (about 4), halved, or quartered if very large
• generous tablespoons coarsely chopped unsalted roasted peanuts
• 2 ounces cooked Vietnamese or Thai dried rice vermicelli (optional)

Procedures

1. Dry fry the shrimp and soften the palm sugar: Heat a small dry pan or wok over medium heat, add the dried shrimp, and cook, stirring frequently, until they’re dry all the way through and slightly crispy, about 5 minutes. Set them aside in a small bowl to cool. They’ll keep covered at room temperature for up to 1 week.
   
2. Put the palm sugar in a small microwavable bowl, sprinkle on the 1/4 teaspoon of water, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and microwave on low just until the sugar has softened (not liquefied), 10 to 30 seconds. Pound the mixture in a mortar (or mash it in the bowl) until you have a smooth paste. Covered, it will keep soft for up to 2 days.
   
3. Make the salad: Cut one of the lime halves lengthwise into thirds, then cut the thirds in half crosswise. Set aside 3 of the pieces (reserve the remaining lime for another purpose).
   
4. Combine the garlic, chiles, and 1 heaping teaspoon of the softened palm sugar in a large clay mortar and pound just until you have a chunky sludge with small but visible pieces of garlic and slightly broken down chiles (do not turn the chiles into mush), 5 to 10 seconds.
   
5. Add the 3 lime wedges and pound very lightly and briefly, just to release the juice. Add the shrimp, pound lightly just to release their flavor (don’t smash or pulverize them), then add the long beans and pound lightly to bruise them (they should not break into pieces or dramatically flatten).
   
6. Halve the cucumber lengthwise and cut it into angled, irregular 3/4- to 1-inch chunks. Add the cucumber, both fish sauces, and lime juice. The next step is easy but subtle. You want to use the pestle to barely bruise the cucumber (lightly pounding at a slight angle, not directly up-and-down) for about 10 seconds, while simultaneously using a large spoon to scoop up from the bottom of the mortar, essentially tossing the cucumber, palm sugar mixture, and the other ingredients as you pound. Do not smash the cucumber.
   
7. Add the tomatoes and pound lightly, just to release the juices. Add the peanuts and mix briefly but well with the spoon.
   
8. If you’re using the noodles, put them on a plate with raised edges or in a shallow bowl. Spoon the contents of the mortar, liquid and all, over them. Stir well before you eat.

Thai Beef Salad

Ingredients

serves Serves 4, active time 45 minutes, total time 50 minutes, plus 48 hours marinating time for the beef

• Beef
• 1 sirloin cap steak or coulotte steak (17.6 ounces / 500 grams)
• 1 garlic clove, thinly sliced
• 1/2 jalapeño, thinly sliced
• 0.35 ounce (10 grams) pickled ginger
• 2 tablespoons (30 grams) sweet vermouth
• 2 tablespoons (33 grams) tamari soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon (14 grams) fish sauce
• 1/4 teaspoon (1.5 grams) fine sea salt
• Rice bran oil or peanut oil, for frying
• Leaves from 1 bunch cilantro
•  
• Salad
• 2 grapefruits
• 5 teaspoons (15 grams) palm sugar, grated on a box grater, or packed dark brown sugar
• 1 tablespoon (14 grams) rice vinegar
• 2 teaspoons (10 grams) fish sauce
• 1/2 teaspoon (3 grams) fine sea salt
• 1 unripe papaya
• 1 bunch watercress, chopped into bite-size pieces

Procedures

1. Prepare the beef: Put the beef on a cutting board and remove any silver skin or large pieces of external fat. Cut a crosshatch grid into the top of the meat, cutting about 1/2 inch (13 mm) deep and leaving about 1/2 inch (13 mm) between the lines. Flip the meat over and repeat on the bottom, being careful not to cut all the way through the meat.
   
2. In a small bowl, combine the garlic, jalapeño, pickled ginger, sweet vermouth, soy sauce, and fish sauce. Put the meat into a gallon-size zip-top bag and add the marinade. Squeeze out the excess air and seal the bag. Turn the bag over a few times so that the meat is evenly coated. Refrigerate the meat in its bag on a baking dish or large plate for at least 24 hours and preferably 48, flipping the meat over twice a day, to allow the flavors to be absorbed.
   
3. Make the salad: The day you are planning to cook the meat, grate the zest from the grapefruits. Transfer the zest to a small container, cover, and reserve in the refrigerator. Use a knife to cut the top and bottom off each grapefruit, exposing the inner segments. Stand the grapefruit up on a cutting board and pare off the skin, slicing it away from the top to the bottom, following the curve of the fruit. Once all of the pith has been removed, hold the grapefruit over a small bowl and use a paring knife to cut between the membranes and free the segments, letting them drop into the bowl. Squeeze the remaining membranes over the segments, catching the juice in the bowl. Remove the grapefruit segments from the bowl, cut them into thirds, transfer to another bowl, and set aside separately.
   
4. Add the palm sugar, rice vinegar, fish sauce, and salt to the bowl of grapefruit juice. Stir to dissolve the salt and sugar. Return the grapefruit segments to the bowl. Peel the papaya and cut it in half lengthwise, and remove the seeds. Use a mandoline to thinly slice the fruit. Add the papaya to the grapefruit vinaigrette and stir to blend with the grapefruit segments. Cover the salad and reserve at room temperature.
   
5. Heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Remove the beef from the marinade and remove any garlic or jalapeño slices that may be stuck to it. Season the meat with the salt. Add 1/4 inch (6 mm) of oil to the bottom of the hot pan and when the oil shimmers, slide the meat into the pan. Turn the heat down to medium. Cook the meat for 30 seconds and gently flip it. Cook for 30 seconds on the second side and flip the meat again. Repeat this process until the meat has cooked for a total of 6 minutes.
   
6. While the meat is cooking, put half of the cilantro leaves on a platter large enough to hold the meat. When the meat has finished cooking, transfer it from the pan onto the bed of cilantro leaves. Cover the top of the meat with the remaining cilantro leaves and then invert a large platter over the meat to hold in heat while it rests. Let the meat rest for at least 5 minutes; the heat will release the oils in the herbs and they will permeate the meat while it rests.
   
7. Remove the top plate and transfer the meat, still covered in cilantro leaves, to a cutting board. Carve the meat into slices, cutting against the grain. Put the meat on a serving platter and add any juices
   and leftover cilantro from the cutting board or the resting plate. Add the watercress to the marinated fruit salad and mix gently to combine. Taste and add a pinch of salt if needed. Arrange the salad over the meat and serve immediately.

Spicy Thai Tofu With Spinach, Basil, and Peanuts

Ingredients

serves Serves 4-6, active time 20 minutes, total time 20 minutes

• 2 tablespoons high-heat cooking oil, divided
• One 16-ounce (500 g) block firm tofu, drained, patted dry and cut into 1/2-inch (1.25 cm) cubes
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 tablespoon minced galangal or fresh ginger
• 8 ounces (250 g) spinach, washed and trimmed
• 1 1/2 tablespoons fish sauce (nam pla)
• 2 teaspoons cooking sherry
• 1 tablespoon oyster sauce
• 1 tablespoon palm or brown sugar
• 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lime juice
• 2 teaspoons Asian chili sauce, preferably Sriracha
• 1/2 cup (10 g) finely chopped fresh Thai or Italian basil
• 1/3 cup (50 g) crushed roasted peanuts plus more for garnish
• Fresh Thai or Italian basil leaves for garnish

Procedures

1. Heat half of the oil in a wok or skillet over medium-high heat. Add the tofu pieces and stir-fry until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Remove from the pan and set aside.
   
2. Heat the remaining oil in the wok or skillet over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and galangal and stir-fry until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the spinach, fish sauce, sherry, oyster sauce, palm sugar, lime juice, and chili sauce; stir-fry until the spinach is wilted, about 2 minutes. Add the basil leaves and peanuts and stir-fry for 30 seconds until basil is wilted. Dish out and garnish with basil leaves and peanuts. Serve with jasmine rice.

Spicy Thai Salad With Minced Pork

Ingredients

serves Serves 4, active time 20 minutes, total time 30 minutes

• 1 tablespoon long-grain rice
• 1 tablespoon high-heat cooking oil
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1 small shallot, finely sliced
• 1 teaspoon minced lemongrass
• 1 fresh hot red or green chili, preferably Thai (deseeded if you prefer less heat)
• 1/2 pound (250 g) ground pork
• 3 tablespoons chicken stock
• 2 tablespoons fish sauce (nam pla)
• 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
• 1 tablespoon palm or brown sugar
• 4 cups (350 g) mixed baby greens
• 1 red pepper, thinly sliced
• 1/2 cup (52 g) peeled, seeded, and diced cucumber
• 12–14 fresh mint leaves
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh Thai or Italian basil
• 1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced
• 4 tablespoons crushed roasted peanuts
• Fresh coriander leaves (cilantro) for garnish
• Mint leaves for garnish
• Lime wedges

Procedures

1. Heat the rice in a small dry skillet over medium heat, stirring and tossing for 3–4 minutes, until it turns golden brown. Transfer to a small plate and allow to cool. Use a mortar and pestle or a spice grinder and grind the rice into a coarse powder. Set aside
   
2. Heat the oil in a wok or skillet on medium-high heat. Add garlic, shallots, lemongrass, and chili; stir-fry until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add pork and stir-fry, while breaking it up with a wooden spoon until cooked through, about 5–6 minutes. Stir in the chicken stock, fish sauce, lime juice, and palm sugar and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and let stand 10 minutes.
   
3. In a large bowl, combine the rice powder, baby greens, red pepper, cucumber, mint leaves, fresh coriander leaves, basil, and red onions. Add the warm pork mixture and toss with the greens. Sprinkle crushed peanuts on top. Garnish with fresh coriander and mint leaves. Serve immediately with lime wedges.